The Perfect Egg White Omelette Basic Procedure

Here is my recipe for making a fluffy egg white omelette.

The idea is you that whip the egg whites at room temperature until they form soft peaks and then cook them in a pan adding the filling at the end.

Here is how it is done.

Separate 3 egg whites from the yolks and reserve the yolks for something else.  Allow the egg whites to come to room temperature so they will expand when whipped. If you haven't much time,  place the eggs in a cup of very warm water for a few minutes before cracking them.

Add a pinch of salt, and with a hand held electric mixer, whip them til foamy or to soft peaks, How whipped you make them depends on how fluffy you want your omelette. Make sure that you have no liquid on the bottom of the bowl underneath, it needs to be uniformly whipped to achieve a fluffy result.
Note: if you whipped the whites  and then waited awhile  liquid will accumulate at the bottom and you will need to momentarily whip them in again before proceeding.

Preheat med-high a small 8 or 9 inch cast iron or teflon pan with a small amount of butter or oil

Add the eggs and quickly smooth with a rubber spatula so it is relatively even. Try not to push the whites against the sides when you do this.

Then cook for 2-4 minutes at medium to medium high and then lower the temperature. At this point you can cover the pan or not. If you cover it you should remove the cover and let it dry out a bit more at the end.

One the eggs are cooked thru you can lift them out of the pan with a flexible metal spatula carefully lift it out onto a plate, then fill it and carefully fold. If you are not putting in a lot of filling you might also fill it before removing the omelette from the pan.

For sweet fillings I like fruit or jam and maybe some soft white cheese. After I fold the omelette using a fork I drizzle it with a little honey or agave syrup and sprinkle it with a few nuts.

Claudia Roden's Almond and Orange Cake

This cake is a wonder! 

It starts by boiling two oranges for two hours then grinding them up and adding almond flour eggs and sugar. I first read about it on Catherine Bedson's blog from Australia http://www.farmhousehome.com.au/2012/08/orange-and-almond-cake.html 

I found that that the original recipe appears in a classic book on Middle Eastern Food written by the renowned author and cultural historian, Claudia Roden.

I bought the book online; "A Book of Middle Eastern Food" Knopf 1968  and I highly recommend it to those who are interested in cooking authentic food that has been passed down through the centuries by generations of dedicated cooks. Reading Claudia Roden on food and culture  is a joyful experience!

Below see a link to a fascinating interview of  Ms. Roden by the Guardian:

 http://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2012/mar/18/claudia-roden-spanish-food-interview

There are a number of other Sephardic Jewish Cakes in her book all are gluten free or nearly and easily adapted.  These were devised for Passover using almond meal instead of flour. I am anxious to try them as they are all  likely to be both easy and delicious.

Here is Claudia Roden's original recipe for Orange and Almond Cake  from "A Book of Middle Eastern Food" Knopf 1968

2 Large Oranges
6 Eggs
1 1/2 Cups Ground Almonds
1 cup Sugar
1 Teaspoon Baking Powder
Butter and Flour for Cake Pan

Wash and boil the oranges (unpeeled) in a little water for nearly 2 hours (or for 1/2 hour in a pressure cooker).
Let them cool, then cut them open and remove the pips.

Turn the oranges into a pulp by rubbing them through a strainer or putting them in an electric blender.

Beat the eggs in a large bowl. Add the other ingredients, mix thouroughly, and pour into a buttered and floured cake pan with a removable base if possible.

Bake in a preheated moderately hot oven (400 degrees) for about 60 minutes. Have a look at it after 1 hour-this type of cake will not go any flatter if the oven door is opened. If it is still very wet, leave it in the oven for a little longer. Cool in the pan before turning out. This is a very moist cake.

Cooks notes:
I use juice oranges and scrub the wax off in hot water using a plastic scrubber to make sure I do not ingest the wax. As suggested in Catherine Bedson's blog I cook the oranges when it is convenient..even a few days ahead. This makes it a very easy cake to make. Catherine uses caster sugar instead of regular sugar. I see no difference having made this both ways. I grind the oranges in a miniprep, (not available in 1968 when the original recipe was published). I substitute either sugar or rice flour for the regular flour used to butter and flour the pan. I remind you to always have all of your ingredients at room temperature before beginning. If you want the cake to be not too moist I suggest that the color be a dark golden brown when it is done. It does not do well sitting in a humid house as it tends to take in the surrounding moisture..although you can pop it into the oven at a low temp, (200-250) to dry it out again.

Two Very Different Versions of Corn Pancakes

I love the kind of cooking that barely needs measurements. I also love corn. Here are two examples of how easy good cooking can be. The first recipe is a family recipe of India Clark's..my son Max's girlfriend..yet another food obsessed member of my growing clan..Her family makes this with their leftover corn. The recipe uses fresh corn on the cob and eggs. The fat and or flavors vary at will. The  second pancake is made of cornmeal and rice flour. Both recipes are easy to make, delicious and gluten free.

  

Fresh Corn on the Cob Pancakes

Chopped Onions or Shallots to Taste
Fresh Sweet Corn on the Cob or Frozen Kernels thawed roughly one to one egg
Herbs
eggs
salt and pepper

1. Saute onions or shallots in butter or oil or rendered bacon fat and set aside in a bowl to cool

2. Cut the cooked corn off the cob into the bowl— 1-2 ears should be enough for 1-2 people 

3. Chop fresh herbs and add to the mixture. Chives, parsley, sage, basil, tarragon, thyme, sorrel, chervil and lemon balm all go well with corn. Make your own creation.

4. Add egg and mix in there should be enough liquid to rise close to the level of the corn..about one egg per ear of corn

5. Add salt and pepper to taste

6. Spoon onto a hot skillet with fat, use the back of your spoon to flatten them a bit..make smallish cakes so they are not too big to easily flip. Turn as  the bottoms begins to brown.

7. Enjoy as is, or with your favorite hot sauce, ketchup, syrup, sour cream.... whatever strikes your fancy and matches the accompaniments

Note: it might be worth trying a sweet version. Try adding a bit of sugar, vanilla and nutmeg with a little orange zest. if you do this and it works well let me know!

Corn Meal and Rice Pancakes

 

 

 3/4 Cup Corn Meal or Corn Flour

1/2 cup Brown or White Rice Flour

1/2 Teaspoon Baking Powder

1//4 Teaspoon Baking Soda

1/2-2/3 Cup Boiling Water

1/2 Cup Buttermilk or to Taste

1 Egg

1 Tablespoon Melted Butter

Pinch of Salt

1 Teaspoon of Sugar

Measure the corn meal or corn flour into a bowl.  

Stir in boiling water and wait 5 minutes for the meal to expand and soften.

Alternate mixing in rice flour, salt buttermilk and sugar. Mix in  the egg and the melted butter. Add the baking powder and baking soda last mixing in well. The type of pancake you get will depend on the thickness of the batter. If you want thick and fluffy your mix should be fairly thick if you want thin and crispy it should be more liquid. Adjust the buttermilk accordingly. 

Melt the butter or oil or bacon fat in a non-stick pan..just a little will do as you don't want greasy pancakes..Then over medium to medium high heat cook on one side til bubbles form and it looks to be drying out a bit..then flip and brown on the other side. I like to make one first to test the heat before I pour them in quantity.

Serve with real maple syrup that has been warmed.

Note: I like fruit in my cakes. I use berries or peaches or apples depending on the time of year. I found an ice cream scoop works well for a measurer and I can add the fruit to it just before it goes into the pan. You can make the fruit to order this also allows you to custom order the cakes for a crowd.  

 

Sorrel Sorrel Wonderful Sorrel!

 

An Omelette, Plus a Plethora of  Ways to Use Sorrel

Sorrel grows like a weed and looks a bit like one. It has an intoxicating sour flavor that is a joy to cook with.The first time I grew it on my terrace it overgrew all its planter neighbors. This year it has it's own pot and so far I have cut it down twice. I don't let it flower as I believe it takes vigor from the plant and eventually just stops producing. If you have no outdoor space, you may find it in your local farmer's market but if you have any outdoor space it is well worth growing. It puts up with part shade locations beautifully and zips up your cooking.

I use Sorrel in a variety of ways.

Removing  tough stems I julienne it, and sprinkle it over my salad greens (Stack the leafs together, then roll them up and cut strips by cutting across the roll) 

I melt it in butter and freeze it for later. It is wonderful with fresh or frozen peas. The french make pea soup with sorrel using fresh peas, butter, cream, a bit of broth and sorrel.

I cut it up and melt it in butter and add a dash of heavy cream  at the end, to make a wonderful fast sauce for Salmon ..I think this would be nice with a poached chicken breast as well.. but use your imagination it is a versatile herb.

Here are some more ideas I found on the internet using sorrel.

http://chocolateandzucchini.com/archives/2011/04/50_things_to_do_with_fresh_sorrel.php


This morning I made a Sorrel Omelette. Using the recipe from www.academiabarilla.com  which is an excellent source for recipes, I adjusted the amounts so I had just one omelette.


http://www.academiabarilla.com/italian-recipes/search-recipes/omelette-with-spring-onions-common-wood.aspx

For one serving I chopped a tablespoon or so of onion, cut up some sorrel..removing the big stems and melted butter, 2 teaspoons or so in a pan. I waited til it started to get color and added the sorrel and onion cooking til the sorrel melts and the onion begins to color.

I then added one beaten jumbo size mixed with a bit of salt and pepper. Swirled the egg to cover the bottom of the pan. It was done in 60 seconds or so.


Then I just rolled it up out of the pan onto the plate and I had a spectacular omelette for one. In less than 5 minutes!

Cooked Corn Meal Cake

Cooked Corn Meal Cake

320g Fine stone ground cornmeal, I like Anson Mills www.ansonmills.com
250 g Superfine sugar or caster sugar
400ml Whole milk
150 ml Sweet butter
3 Large eggs
Zest from one orange
2 Tablespoons dry sherry, the better the sherry the better the taste
1 Teaspoon vanilla
1 Tablespoon baking powder
extra butter and cornmeal for preparing the pan

All ingredients should be at room temperature before you begin. Set them out on the counter for at least a half hour before proceeding.

Preheat the oven to 355 degrees

Using a paper towel butter the inside of a tube pan..preferably with a lift our center. Then carefully dust all surfaces with cornmeal so that there is a light dust overall. The original recipe calls for a 23cm pan approx 9.5 inches..I found it too big and as a result my cake is not as tall as I would like.
I would try an 8 or even 7 inch angel cake pan with removable bottom.

Using a heavy pot or casserole heat the milk, over low/medium heat and slowly add the cornmeal a little at a time making sure it is whisked into the milk before adding more..wash down grains that attach to the side of the pot and make sure you get into the corners where the cornmeal can fall and start to cook and burn. Add meal and sugar slowly and continue to stir.  Make sure you beat out any lumps going one direction and another if necessary. Add the butter as you go as well as the three flavorings. When the mixture becomes thickened like good porridge, give a few more stirs then turn out into a large bowl and stir a bit.

Leave any bits that stick to the bottom as you do not want the hard cooked corn goo. Leave it in the bowl and wait for it to cool to warm not hot. Then add the egg yolks and beat.

Finally whip egg whites until they have soft peaks. Take a cup or so of the corn sponge and lightly fold into the whites. It should not be completely blended in.

Stir the baking powder into the corn mixture and finally lightly fold in the egg whites so they are almost but not quite well mixed in.

Immediately pour into the pan and bake 40-45 minutes or until a toothpick plunged into it comes out clean.

Set on a rack and after you see the cake has shrunk from the pan you can lift it out by the bottom piece and let it continue to cool on a rack. When it is thoroughly cool gently with a fine knife remove the bottom of the pan from the cake. 

This gluten free cake is fragrant, soft and makes nice crumbs. Serve with juicy fruit ,plums, pitted cherries, berries or peaches. Next time I am thinking to split it  and fill the layer with custard. You can top it with a bit of ice cream or whipped cream. You can change the flavorings..a standard nutmeg vanilla mace addition might be fun..Use your imagination!



Cooking Notes on Cooked Corn Meal Cake

I always think that the gluten free cakes and breads I have had are really not very appetizing. Without gluten it is hard to make cake and bread that have a nice texture. Also for some reason most gf cakes and breads are filled with strange ingredients trying to emulate wheat flour. My sense is we need to try to find breads or cakes that already exist so that they are good.

I have been considering corn meal to make a cake..It was already in my mind to try to lighten it texturize it and flavor it. Cooking the meal would make a sponge..adding whipped egg whites would further lighten it.

I started to look up recipes on the internet that use corn meal for making a cake. Naturally most had a bit or a lot of wheat flour..But after some time I came upon this recipe:

http://technicolorkitcheninenglish.blogspot.com/2007/03/cooked-cornmeal-cake.html

It is essentially a cooked cornmeal with sugar and milk to which eggs, oil, baking powder etc are added. While I did not make it exactly I did think it would work out fine.

Then I noticed a link on that recipe back to an earlier version..it is in Portuguese..I think.. and is a little different

http://pecadodagula.blogspot.com/2006/11/bolo-de-fub-cozido.html

Then I noticed another picture of another cake..this one has butter not oil and whips the whites of the eggs separately folding them in at the end..Better, I thought..

http://pecadodagula.blogspot.com/2012/03/bolo-de-fuba-cozido-da-vovo-estela.html

Finally I had been reading the recipe on the Anson Mills site, which while it is very complex and has wheat flour had a nice idea for flavoring

http://ansonmills.com/recipes/504
 I loved sound of sherry, orange and vanilla

My recipe above is a combination of my experiences with cakes and the recipes of others before me.
Thanks to all for the help!!

My Son Max

Everyone, this is Max. Max, this is Everyone

I’d like to introduce a fresh face to The Meat Market: Max Gitlen, our new butcher! Born and raised in Albany, Max grew up traveling between New York City, Upstate New York, and The Berkshires (he learned to ski at Butternut when he was three), soaking up the food-centricity of our region, and watching his mother craft a vegetable garden out of a vacant lot near their home. Though he studied architecture in school (Brown University) and toured as a DJ post graduation, he found he couldn’t stop thinking about the potentials of food. Putting aside the beats, Max began working at a Boston-based non-profit called The Food Project, one of the first organizations in the country that sought to unite youth of all stripes through the fun, frustrating business of farming. Seeking to spread the value of local farming even further, Max helped to set up a program that would match low income families’ food stamps at farmers’ markets. He noticed that despite a growing interest in sustainable food practice among his peers, there weren’t nearly enough people willing to get their hands dirty with the nitty gritty of sustainable food production. So, Max set out to get his hands dirty.
It was around this time that his father began raising sheep on a refurbished farm in Greenwich, NY, and Max was inspired; since most of the people he knew that were actively involved in food production were farming vegetables, he decided to focus on animals. As he put it, “if I’m part of a commune some day, someone’s going to have to bring the steaks.” He spent three months apprenticing at Formaggio’s Kitchen in Boston, learning the ins-and-outs of charcuterie production, then moved to New York and spent nine months with Liz Clark at Bubby’s, breaking down whole steer and pigs, before heading back to Rhode Island to work at Farmstead. The more he cut, the more he realized how all his interests seemed to funnel: from biology to architecture to environmental sustainability, all were aligned under the knife.

In many ways our shop espouses the very values he aspires to as a butcher. As he sees it, the key to sustainable meat production is local sourcing of whole animals, and the only way to do that viably is to have a solid business foundation that can take advantage of the whole animal; we agree, hence our extensive charcuterie program and fantastic cafe. As we talked, he noted how rare this type of business was, particularly outside a major city, and how tricky a business like this can be. He sees our business as an opportunity not only to provide a great product but to further the aspirations of local food, to provide the highest quality food to all people, to keep the lines visible between producer and customer, and to build a community that can thrive on these principles.

We here at The Meat Market are very excited to have him as part of the team, and he can’t wait to work with us, and with you, to make the shop better and better. “I’m excited about learning with our customers. We’re all in this together, we’re on the same team. I want the customer to go home with what they want, and I want to hear what works for them, what doesn’t, and how to make the experience better for everyone. It’s a collaboration between both sides of the counter, and it takes trust on both sides. I want to keep on learning, keep on experimenting, and bringing all that knowledge to the community.” Hear hear, Max, and welcome aboard!

FYI Max Gitlen is my Son! More on the Meat Market @ www.themeatmarketgb.com

Beet Borscht

One of my favorite memories from childhood was going to to Lindy's with my dad. The restaurant was large and noisy, the walls were covered with photos of movie stars. Waiters were rushing about and there was a feeling of being at an enormous party. I remember sitting up particularly straight so I could see everything that was going on.
The foods were familiar, Jewish and delicious.
They had an enormous menu. I remember ordering beet borscht and a wonderful apple pancake.

My grandmother had always made the classic Russian cabbage and meat borscht. But prior to this I had only had beet borscht from a jar we bought at the grocery store.  Beet borscht at Lindy's  came not only the standard sour cream but also, with a hot boiled potato! I had never seen it this way and when I put a bit of the hot potato into the soup it was nothing short of miraculous!


I am including  a link  here to a description of the venerable Lindy's that  I visited so long ago with my dad.

http://nyapril1946.blogspot.com/2010/09/lindys-already-legendary-in-1946.html

Beet Borscht

3 large boiling beets
cover with water
Sour Salt, (dried citric acid, available at gourmet stores) or lemon juice
Salt
Potato
Sour Cream
Dill


Wash and scrub beets. Cover beets with water. Add salt and boil. Remove the beets and slip the skins off in cold water. Grate the beets, either a food processor or a medium sized hole of a box grater will do..Rubber gloves will be handy here.
Put the grated beet back into the cooking water. Starting with 1 teaspoon of sour salt or a tablespoon or two of lemon juice and then add some granulated sugar  stirring and adding a little at a time alternating sour salt and sugar if necessary, until you have a tart but not too tart sweet sour taste. Add a little salt if necessary. Chill well and serve with a large dollop of sour cream and a hot boiled potato with a bit of chopped dill
Note: sugar can be replaced with agave syrup or stevia and there is  very good fat free sour cream which I use.

Quick Summer Lobster Salad

My simple summer cottage has the smallest stove on the planet.

 So I thought I would use the local takeouts to help me in my quest for easy and good food. Also..as often is the case.. I am on a diet so I am eating strategically today.

Tonight I am seeing a movie and lecture so I needed to figure out how I could eat early as my diet demands. My solution is to eat breakfast a little late and then skip lunch but have Linner..is that a word??

 Last night's dinner was a lobster and some corn..The local fish market The ClamMan http://www.clamman.com/
very nice people.. steamed me a lobster. Not knowing how much I could eat, I ordered a pound and a half. But I could only finish the claws and legs. So I saved the tail and all those tiny legs for today.

I went online and found a recipe for that cold leftover lobster,  lovely lobster salad. Here is the basic recipe:

http://www.epicurious.com/recipes/food/views/Tarragon-Lobster-Salad-105219

I chose it because I love tarragon with lobster and had brought some out from my tiny city herb garden. If you don't have lobster you could easily substitute shrimp or scallops or take it in another direction completely and used chicken or turkey. You might try basil instead of tarragon.

I did not follow the recipe to the letter; rather I picked the lobster meat reserving it in a small bowl..then with a mini food processor I chopped my tarragon and after did my shallots. I eyeballed how much mayo, lemon juice and pepper and mixed it with the shallots and tarragon and added the  lobster. The picture shows some baby red oak leaf lettuce I got in the city and small yellow tomatoes..I wasn't really keen on the tomatoes you might be but if not  I encourage you to try other garnishes..I could imagine a bit of crumbled bacon or maybe some very sweet melon. Cooking is like that! Experiment! Wing it!